Christmas Dinner - What's that all about?
December 2023

Of course, our Christmas newsletter should include a teensy reminder to get those food tour vouchers and goodie boxes bought or ordered sharpish but we thought we would treat you to some interesting facts about Christmas dinner you can throw into the conversation around the table at your own dinner.
A little bit of history…….What do you think of when you hear the words ‘christmas dinner’? Turkey? Mince Pies? Well, the make-up of the traditional Christmas Dinner has changed a little over time. Of course, back in medieval times, what you ate was very much determined by your class. The rich would have eaten goose and, with the king’s permission, swan. The poor on occasion could get a goose from the church but it would cost about 7 pence, a day’s wages! Venison was also popular and this would occasionally mean the poor got the chance to feast on the leftover parts: the heart, liver, tongue, ears and brain – known as the ‘umbles. A cook could mix these with whatever else they could get and make them into an ‘umble pie’. For pudding, people could have ‘frumenty’ made from thick porridge, currants, dried fruit, egg yolk and spices.
An addition to the festive dinner during Elizabethan times was sugar, and whilst it was mostly for the better off due to its expense, it led to an extra sweetmeat course being added. Dishes included ‘collops of bacon’ made from ground almonds and sugar and ‘leech’ - a milk based sweet made from sugar and rosewater. To drink was ‘lambswool’, made from hot cider, spices and apples which exploded when hot and created a white woolly top, hence the name!
During Georgian times, a Twelfth Night celebration became popular. January 5th would see Twelfth Night parties where the main centrepiece was ‘Twelfth Cake’, the forerunner of today’s Christmas pud which contained a dried pea or bean, Whoever found this pea/bean in their slice would become king or queen for the night!
Still no turkeys as yet. In Northern England during Victorian times, roast beef was the most common Christmas meal while those in the south liked goose. If this was out of your means, rabbit was a good alternative. Turkey only became popular towards the end of the 19th century but was in rather short supply come the second world war, so chicken would be the next choice, followed by, yes, you got it- rabbit!
Next, when you’re debating whether or not Yorkshire Puddings should be eaten with Christmas Dinner (there’s a split decision in Yorkshire Appetite camp – my personal view; any excuse for a Yorkshire Pud!), spare a thought for the weird and wonderful things eaten at this festive time around the world.
You may have heard about the tradition in Japan of a big bucket of KFC on Christmas Day. This came from a marketing campaign in the 1970s that popularized KFC as the go-to food for Christmas. In China, Christmas is not a public holiday as a western Christian festival, however celebrating it has become more and more popular especially among young people. One tradition is to share decorative apples on Christmas Eve with your loved ones. They are carved with an encouraging message and wrapped in colourful paper. Known as ‘peace apples, they are a way to show you care about someone.
Something rather different in Norway now. ‘Smalahove’ used to be traditionally served the Sunday before Christmas and was considered an indulgent meal for the poor. It was, wait for it, a sheep’s head served with potato and rutabaga (like a turnip). The head was split in two and the brain removed and soaked in water for 2 days then salted, dried and smoked before being boiled or steamed to be eaten. Nowadays, however, this dish is reserved more for tourists and left off the average Norwegian’s Christmas table (a relief for them I suspect).
One traditional Christmas food that is still served today is ‘mattak’ and ‘kiviak’ in Greenland. Mattak is a strip of skin taken from the narwhal or white whale with blubber still attached, it is carved into bite-sized chunks and is said to taste like fresh coconut. Kiviak is the flesh of a small arctic bird called auk which is then stuffed inside a sealskin. This is buried for several months to ferment then it’s ready – lovely (gulp).
So, I for one, will not be trying that this year – unfortunately I forgot to bury my kiviak in good time, will just have to settle for Yorkshire puddings and chocolates (not together). You all enjoy your festive fare!









