Our French Food Adventures continue…..
April 2023

We are three weeks into the Yorkshire Appetite food adventure in France and are discovering so much about French food and food culture. We have had to get used to the fact the restaurants open from 12 – 2 pm and that’s it until the evening, none of this 14 hour opening malarky. That bread is the foundation of French life with six billion baguettes being baked each year and there is even a law to make sure the bread is good. It’s never too early for a glass of wine and buying cheese is a complicated social process.
Every village in France must sell bread. If there is no bakery, there will be a ‘ d ép ôt de pain’ sign to let you know where it is sold. The D écret Pain was a law that was passed in 1993 when the government noticed that bakers were cutting costs in order to increase their profits by using cheaper ingredients and this was leading to a decrease in bread consumption as the quality diminished. A law was therefore passed that stated that traditional baguettes have to be made on the premises they are sold and can only be made with four ingredients: wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. No dough can be frozen at any time and the bread cannot contain additives or preservatives. Hence your baguette must be enjoyed within 24 hours.
We learnt from Jessica, who runs Taste of Toulouse , that there are some ways to ensure a baguette is the real deal. It must have a wide slash along the top (to show that it has risen well), have a good colour on it (a good brown not your feeble pasty white colour) and the bottom needs to show that it has been cooked on the traditional stone. Dots or lines mean it’s been baked on a wire tray and that is not artisan. No wonder the baguette gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2022. The decision recognises the savoir-vivre of France and their traditions of sharing and conviviality and has helped revive a national interest in artisan baking.
Did you know you can do a degree in cheese? Being a cheesemonger is a dedicated profession and some also become known as cheese attier, an expert at ageing cheese, or even become a ‘fromager’ or cheesemaker. When you go to the cheese stall, there are SO many cheeses you have to give the poor guys a clue as to what you would like – colour, texture, animal origin, age, strength and they are happy to suggest and let you try before you make the important decision.
Although we have met vegetarians here who assure us that France has now caught up with the world and there are many delicious vegetarian dishes to be tried, the meat counters on the French markets are not for faint-hearted, meat eaters or not. One product that is revered in the eastern regions we have visited to date and reminds us of our great Yorkshire products at home is the Boudin Noir, or Black Pudding. It melts on the tongue and combined with the apples of the region, it is a taste explosion in your mouth. There are abundant recipes to try and some of the more unusual recipes we have come across so far have been a galette filled with Boudin noir and toasted apples and, I kid you not, a black pudding flavoured macaron! Savoury macarons! Who knew! I’m not sure they will catch on to be honest.
We have found very traditional methods of cooking and preserving fruits are still in evidence today and we were particularly taken with the Flattened Pears of Rivarennes. A tradition from the 11th century that was revived in the 1990s of preserving the pears by drying them in a low oven. Once dried, each pear is flattened individually to rid it of the moisture within and then they can be enjoyed for months or even years. You can even rehydrate them in juice or wine. Yorkshire Appetite HQ has its own pear trees, some of you may know, so watch this space. No pear chutney this year!
If you would like to learn more about our French food adventures then please support us on our quest to bring them to the world by clicking RIGHT HERE We really appreciate your help. Merci beaucoup and until next time. A bientôt.
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